Lot 499
  • 499

Rare steel and diamond tiara, Cartier, circa 1912

Estimate
500,000 - 700,000 CHF
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Description

  • Steel, diamonds, platinum
Of scallop design, the curved blackened steel band bordered at the top with two rows of circular-cut diamonds, the bottom decorated with a line of similarly cut stones and palmette motifs set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, both ends of scroll design similarly set, inner circumference approximately 400mm, signed Cartier, French assay and maker's marks.

Provenance

Purchased in 1912 at Cartier as a wedding gift for the grandmother of the present owner.

Literature

Cf.: Judy Rudoe, Cartier. 1900-1939, London, 1997, pg. 95 for another example of a steel and diamond tiara, with rubies, dated 1914.

Cf.: Philippe Trétiak, Cartier, Paris, 2005, for other examples of steel and diamond tiaras dated 1914 and an example of a tiara of similar design.

Cf.: Jean-Paul Cluzel, Cartier, Style and History, Paris, 2013, pgs. 144-145 for examples of metal and diamond tiaras.

Condition

Signed Cartier Paris, maker's mark for Picq. French assay marks for platinum. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 40.00 - 45.00 carats, on average G-H colour, VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Signs of tarnish and scratches to the metal consistent with age and normal use. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 105 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

This unusual and attractive tiara is one of a small group of about five Cartier diadems made of blackened steel and diamonds between 1912 and 1915. These steel tiaras were originally kept in place with a ribbon at the back, as in this example with its original fitting. All these particular tiaras appear to have been made for Cartier by the Parisian workshop Henri Picq. An alternative patination in green on copper is suggested by a design for a kokoshnik of this type that appears in the Workshop Estimate Book for 1913. Although the design is of black colour, it is annotated 'étoiles brillantes sur fond cuivre teint vert-de-gris' (diamond stars on a copper ground the colour of verdigris).