18 Karat Gold, Colored Stone and Enamel Pendant and Earclips, Frank Gardner Hale

The pendant of scrollwork design centering square and emerald-cut green tourmalines and two oval-shaped demantoid garnets, further accented by round, cushion and pear-shaped sapphires, highlighted with green and blue enamel, the chain further accented with scrollwork motifs, gross weight approximately 17 dwts, length 22 inches, signed FG Hale; together with a pair of earclips of similar design, set with emerald-cut green tourmalines, two round sapphires and two round demantoid garnets, highlighted in enamel of similar hues, signed F.G.H.; circa 1920

In good condition, with some enamel loss, most apparent on the pendant. The tourmalines are a lively blue-green, eye-clean with some very minor abrading to the facet junctions on some of the stones visible only under magnification. The demantoid garnets are a medium yellowish green, moderately included with some evident abrading to the facet junctions. The largest demantoid weighs approximately 1.85 carats and exhibits the tell-tale horsetail inclusions. The sapphires are a medium light violetish blue, lightly to moderately included. All pieces are well made, with fine gold work. Signed on applied plaques on the reverse of the pieces. Gold chain completed by a jump clasp. Please note that oval-shaped light green stones in the pendant and round light green stones in the earrings are demantoid garnets, not peridot.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Frank Gardner Hale (1876-1945), one of the most prominent proponents of the Arts and Crafts movement in Boston, first trained with C.R. Ashbee and Frederick Patridge in England. With the opening of his Copley Square Studio in 1907, Hale played a critical role in the establishment of the Jewelers Guild of the Boston Society of Arts and Crafts. With their swirled enameled flourishes and unexpected combination of colored stones, the pendant and earrings offered here epitomize the movement's aesthetic spirit which looked to past traditions and Eastern styles to create a new standard of beauty. A brooch of similar design by Hale is part of the collection at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. 

For additional information on Frank Gardner Hale, see Jewelry in America: 1600-1900 by Martha Gandy Fales, pages 397-402.