Lot 384
  • 384

A RARE IMPERIAL LADY'S INFORMAL GAUZE ROBE QING DYNASTY, GUANGXU PERIOD

Estimate
10,000 - 15,000 USD
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Description

  • textile
finely embroidered with sprigs of large peonies interspersed with couched wanshou medallions, stylized shou characters and flying phoenix in gold-wrapped threads, the black collar and sleeve bands with a similar motif further edged with couched stylized shou characters and florets, the sleeves with an additional black brocade band, framed

Provenance

Sotheby's New York, 9th and 10th October 1987, lot 87.

Condition

The robe is mounted and framed and has not been inspected out of the frame. The color on the front of the robe is faded. The edging at the ends of both sleeves is loose. The gold couched threads that border the black peony and phoenix band on the left sleeve and around the collar are loose. Some of the buttons have been reattached, and there are some scattered minor pulls.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

This robe was most likely made for the Empress Dowager Cixi. In her later years, wanshou medallions and shou characters, which represented longevity, were a favored motif. Numerous photographs of her wearing such robes exist. The wanshou medallions in the present lot are extremely well-done. Not only do the ends of each line form ruyi-heads, but the medallions also incorporate bats, which symbolize blessings and chimes which symbolize celebration.

With its main decoration of phoenix, which symbolized the empress, and peonies symbolizing wealth and nobility, it is hard to imagine that the present lot would have been worn by anyone else besides Cixi. A drawing of a similar robe, described as an empress' ordinary dress, is illustrated in Zhou Xun and Gao Chunming, 5000 Years of Chinese Costumes, Hong Kong, 1988, fig. 304, across from a photograph of Cixi. An actual robe with similar phoenix and peony design was sold in these rooms, 12th October 1984, lot 160. Another robe possibly made for Cixi, with similar brocade edging, also sold in these rooms, 16th March 1984, lot 63.