French, late 15th century

decorated with chivalric characters, wild men, a courting couple, animals and floral motifs; inscribed: MAIS UNE FOIS (But one time) on the text bands and monogrammed DE on the coats of arms

Overall the condition of the leather is good with wear and dirt to the surface consistent with age. There is stable craquelure consistent with material throughout, leading to some losses on the underside. There is worming consistent with material, leading to some losses to the lower edge. There are some losses to the metal mounts, including various nails and a section of the left strap on the lid. There is wear to the corners of the flange and where the strap of the lock was caught on the inside. The inside is lined with linen which is worn, discoloured and slightly stained.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

From the 14th to the 16th century, the ownership of cuir-ciselé caskets was the privilege of church treasuries and the upper classes. The present casket, with its rich chivalric and legendary scenes, and the armorial inscribed DE and the motto Mais une fois, must been made for a wealthy citizen, probably to commemorate a betrothal. The elaborate apparel of the couple on the lid is particularly beautiful: the lady holds a flower, wears a long gown and a broad hat made up of three layers of material that each flare at the sides. The gentleman wears a brocaded velvet jacket with red trousers, and long pointed shoes. His fashionable costume is very similar to that of Philip the Good in Rogier van der Weyden's Chronique de Hainaut of 1447-1448 (Brussels, Bibliotheque Royale, MS. 9294, f.1). Gall (op.cit.) illustrates only two caskets of similar shape and size: a reliquary decorated with saints in the Schnütgen Museum, Cologne and a 14th-century example in The Cloisters, New York which also has the red and gilt highlighting of our casket.

RELATED LITERATURE

G. Gall, Leder im Europäischen Kunsthandwerk, Berlin, 1965, p. 89, fig. 6 and p. 129, fig. 96