Lot 280
  • 280

Patek Philippe

Estimate
80,000 - 120,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

  • Retailed by Palais Royal, Habana: An Extremely Rare Yellow Gold World Time WristwatchRef 1415 Mvt 927659 Case 644138 Heures Universelles Made in 1945
  • gold, alligator strap
  • diameter 31 mm, thickness 8.6 mm, bracelet circumference 180 mm
• cal. 12'''120 manual winding nickel lever movement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic balance • two-part silvered dial, the raised central portion with applied gold Roman and baton indexes, the recessed outer portion indicating 24 hours diurnal and nocturnal indication, open circle hour hand • rotating Louis Cottier designed Heures Universelles bezel engraved with 41 world cities, magnifying crystal, teardrop lugs, snap back • case and movement signed by maker, dial signed by retailer and maker • with an 18k yellow gold associated bracelet

Condition

Movement in overall good aesthetic condition, with slight scratches and some oxidization. Balance oscillates at time of cataloguing, however it does not run for a period of time and is in need of service. The case is in overall good condition with slight wear, notably around the crown from winding, and some light scratches to the case band and case back. Has the original flat top crystal with some scratches. Some wear to the case from opening. Dial has patina and is all original with slight scratches and spotting. Hands slightly oxidized.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping.

Important Notice regarding importation into the United States of Rolex watches
Sotheby's cannot arrange for the delivery of Rolex watches to the United States because U.S. laws restricts the import of Rolex watches. The buyer or a designated agent may collect the property in the country of sale."

Catalogue Note

With an Extract from the Archives confirming sale on 1 April 1948.

As the only known example of Ref. 1415 retailed by the legendary Palais Royal boutique of Havana, Cuba, the present example stands out within the famed genre of Heures Universelles watches by Patek Philippe. Its technical importance and rarity take on particular historical resonance when considered in the context of mid-twentieth century geopolitics.

Havana's grand architecture and influx of international visitors in the early 20th century earned the city the nickname 'the Paris of the Caribbean'. Such was its cultural importance that great international intellects of the time chose to call the city home, most notably Ernest Hemingway. In this period of prosperity, Palais Royal catered to the well-heeled elite of the city and became a major retailer for Patek Philippe. Just ten years following the sale of this highly important Patek Philippe watch, Cuban society would undergo radical transformation in its Revolution. It can well be theorized that the present lot was one of the last complicated Patek Philippe watches to be sold in Cuba, and perhaps one of the most important pieces to bear this retailer's name.

Ref. 1415 was first launched in 1939. According to our research, Patek Philippe made just over 80 examples of Ref. 1415 in yellow gold. The present example belongs to the third series of the reference, distinguished by its dial configuration, hour markers and hands. A period advertisement for the watch noted: 'For men with international interests, it is indispensable.' Indeed, the world time mechanism is one of the greatest successes of watchmaking, and Patek Philippe's contemporary offerings, such as Refs. 5110 and 5130 (see lots 9 and 10), and are clearly inspired from these early models.

The present lot is stunning to behold, its dial having achieved a warm, nearly rose patina. The untouched nature of the dial is immediately evident in the breakpoint between daytime and nighttime hours at the 6 o'clock marker. It maintains an originality nearly impossible to find in today's world of collecting and truly provides a glimpse into the golden age of watchmaking.

The 'Heures Universelles' function of Ref. 1415 operates via the rotating bezel. When the bezel is rotated so that the home city is at the 12 o'clock position, and the watch is set to the local time zone, the 24-hour indication adjusts automatically so that one can see the current time in 41 world cities. Because the case, dial and movement are all integral to the technical function of the watch, Louis Cottier who was the the creator of the World Time, supervised the production of each element.

Louis Cottier (1894-1996) was born in Carouge and attended the Horological School of Geneva before going to work for his father and horological mentor Emmanuel Cottier (1858-1930). Like his father, Cottier was very talented mechanical genius and went on to develop numerous patents that changed the face of watchmaking. Reacting to the realities of the Great Depression, Cottier saw a niche in high-end watchmaking and focused his talents on the development of complicated watches. Foremost among these discoveries was his development of the world time mechanism in the 1930s. This invention would inspire some of the most iconic Patek Philippe complications.

For further examples of Ref. 1415 and other Louis Cottier Heures Universelles inventions, see Huber, A. & Banbery, M., Patek Philippe Wristwatches, p. 243-245.