GE1305

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Lot 142
  • 142

Gem set and diamond brooch/pendant, Zorra, circa 1900

Estimate
15,000 - 25,000 CHF
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Description

  • Zorra
  • chalcedony, diamond, gold, assembled pearl
The carved chalcedony portrait of a female, framed by her hair and foliate motifs in gold, highlighted with grape-like bunches of circular-cut diamonds, suspending three soufflure de perle clusters, signed Zorra, French assay mark, brooch fitting detachable.

Literature

Cf: Vivienne Becker, Art Nouveau Jewelry, 1985, London, pages 90 and 230 and plates 134 and 148 for images and information on Zorra.

Cf: The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910, 1990, London, page 206 for related works.

Condition

Signed ZORRA to the front. Brooch fitting stamped with French assay marks for 18 carat gold. Carved chalcedony portrait in excellent condition. Three soufflure de perle clusters, one which has been partially worked, one with evidence of glue visible under 10x magnification at base, some rosé and green overtones visible. Central pendant and brooch fitting detachable. Diamonds estimated to weight a total of approximately 1.50 - 2.00 carats, bright and lively. Signs of normal wear to gold, abrasions consistent with age and use. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 33 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Inspired by 19th century literary traditions, the 'flower girl' motif was given life in jewellery by Art Nouveau jewellers such as Lalique, Vever, Aucoc, Beaudouin, Solié and Zorra. Ivory, chalcedony, shell and coral were carved for the central portrait. A small collection of Louis Zorra's works is owned by the Museum für Kunst und Gerwerbe in Hamburg, most likely purchased from Paris Salons at the turn of the century. Likely of Italian origin, Zorra worked in Paris and was registered by the assay office in 1901, his address given as 30 rue Volta.