Emerald, ruby and diamond brooch, Cartier, Paris, 1930s

Designed as a 20 pesos gold coin, 1918, within a border of brilliant-cut diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds and natural and synthetic rubies, suspended from a similarly set scrolling brooch surmount, signed Cartier.

Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Friday 3rd April 1987, Lot 162.

Rubies of Burmese origin cannot be imported into the US. This piece may contain rubies of Burmese origin and therefore may not be able to be imported into the US. Certification of non-Burmese origin will be required before import of rubies into the US. Please see our Important Notices and contact the jewelery department for further information. Signed Cartier with maker's marks. Stamped with partial French assay marks for 18 carat gold. Rubies medium reddish pink, with some characteristic inclusions visible to naked eye and under magnification, four rubies synthetic. Emerald pale to medium green, some characterisitic inclusions visible to naked eye and under magnification. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 0.50 - 1.50 carats, stones bright and lively. Brooch pin secure. Some abrasions and tarnish to metal consistent with wear. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The tasteful design created by Cartier and exhibited in this superb gem set brooch is one favoured by the Duchess. When the brooch was offered in the 1987 sale, it sat alongside a slightly larger example, decorated entirely with diamonds and set similarly with a Mexican medallion.The Duchess can be seen wearing both brooches in the image on the right.

The Duke and Duchess travelled extensively during their lives and enjoyed the diversities of other cultures, suitably reflected in their varied and elegant sense of style.

The Mexico City Mint, the oldest in North America, produced gold pesos from the early years of the twentieth century until the 1970s in denominations ranging from two pesos to fifty. The Mexican Coat of Arms, an eagle with a serpent in its beak, perched on a cactus, features on the front of each of the coins. The 20 pesos coin, incorporated by Cartier into the design of this brooch, depicts the Aztec Calendar Sun Stone to its reverse, more accurately named Cuauhxicalli or Eagle Bowl. The original stone, dedicated to the principal Aztec deity, the sun, is believed to have been carved in 1479 and holds both mythological and astrological significance.