A magnificent silk lampas robe and feathered hat, Central Asia, 11th/12th Century

the coat of characteristic form with long sleeves and open front, with an earthy red ground decorated in yellow, blue, green and white with repeating roundels comprising a central geometric composition surrounded by an undulating vine-form frame with lotus buds, stylised vegetal motifs in between, fur lining the collar and sleeves.

the hat composed of felt with two fur-lined, upturned flaps, the exterior with pink, green and brown silk lining, with a leopard-fur protrusion topped with a spray of red feathers

In overall good condition, wear and discoloration along back and areas under sleeves, fur worn and partly missing to top of collar consistent with age, the hat in good condition, area of staining to interior, some wear to fur, feathers possibly later replacements, as viewed. Lot accompanied by a RadioCarbon Dating test carried out on the hem of the base of the robe, the fur collar of the robe and the lining of the hat by RCD Lockinge confirming the date of manufacture between the 9th to 12th centuries.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Textiles, due to their portability, were a popular commodity to trade and exchange and played an important role in the dissemination of artistic motifs. Strategically located along the main trade routes between China, Byzantium and Persia, Sogdiana represented the centre for the commerce of silk textiles from diverse regions, and particularly between China and Persia. Local Sogdian silk production flourished from the seventh to the eleventh centuries, and is characterised by assorted influences. This magnificent coat and extravagant hat are indicative of this fusion, and it is interesting to look at the inspirations behind their design.

Whereas historical accounts record the presence of Chinese craftsmen in Bukhara as early as the eighth century, it has also been noted that there was an increase of Sogdian populations in north-western China during this period (Kadoi 2009, p.17). Each medallion on the present coat is surrounded by a frame composed of a curvilinear stem with lotus buds and leaves. These recall the floral medallions on a silk textile fragment from the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art (inv. no. 1996.103.1, illustrated in: Watt and Wardell 1997, pp.38-9, no.6). The geometrised aspects of the design on the present robe are similar to that on a textile fragment now in the Cleveland Museum of Art, inv. no. 1950.514, attributed to Central Asia, seventh-ninth century, which is woven with a row of aligned roundels with concentric diamonds filling the interstices (ibid., p.33, no.4). Interestingly, this type of motif and its geometric arrangement has been associated with Sasanian iconographic conventions, and as noted by Yuka Kadoi: “The impact of Sasanian textiles is particularly reflected in the fashion for roundel motifs so deeply integrated into Tang textile design” (Kadoi 2009, p.16).

Characterised by a rich and broad cross-cultural mix, germinated at the crossroads of China and Iran, this robe and hat play an important part in our understanding of a civilization influenced by a nomadic culture in which wealth had to be transportable, thus according a huge importance to portable goods such as textiles.