Lot 11
  • 11

Ruby and diamond demi parure, Late 18th Century, possibly Iberian

Estimate
5,000 - 7,000 GBP
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Description

  • silver, diamond
Comprising: a necklace and a pair of pendent earrings of girandole form, all of ribbon and foliate design, the necklace suspending two interchangeable pendants, one designed as a bird with a ruby eye, length of necklace approximately 265mm, earrings with post fittings, fitted case.

Condition

Ruby dark purplish red, typical inclusions visible to naked eye and under magnification. Foil backed diamonds bright and lively. Each side of collier terminating on a loop allowing ribbon to be added so collier can be worn. Two pendants can be worn together or separately. Collier and earrings articulated. Abrasions and slight tarnish to mounts consistent with age and wear. In good condition. Fitted case with gold foliate tooling to exterior, evidence of age and wear, later relined with red velvet, one catch deficient.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Similar examples of these jewels can be found at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Girandole earrings grew out of 18th Century fashion, which emphasises the wearer’s neck, leaving the ears uncovered, and ideal for the adornment with elaborate earrings. The recent discoveries of Brazilian diamonds had increased  supply allowing for a greater display of facetted stones, while improvements in cutting diamonds were best displayed from the girandole framing the face and catching the candle light.