A Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Diamond Necklace, Bulgari, 1959

centering a flexible composition of 13 emerald drops weighing approximately 71.00 carats, further enhanced with 14 cabochon emeralds weighing approximately 41.00 carats accented by 14 marquise-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 8.50 carats, and set throughout with numerous round diamonds weighing approximately 50.00 carats, length 14½ inches, unsigned, French workshop and assay marks; with signed and fitted box.

Astor, Brooke. Footprints: An Autobiography. Doubleday & Company, Inc. Garden City: New York, 1980

In good condition. The emeralds are a richly saturated, medium deep, very slightly bluish green, both the cabochons and the drops are well matched for color, shape and size. The cabochons are range from lightly to moderately included, and the drops are moderately included. Most odf the emeralds have small cavities from surface reaching inclusions which is typical of this "old mine" material. The diamonds are approximately D-F color, VVS-VS clarity. Fitted with a safety closure. Workshop mark, possibly an R B bi-sected by a star on the closure. The necklace is very flexible, comfortable to wear and well made. A very special piece. Dimensions: length 14 1/2 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

This magnificent emerald and diamond necklace was commissioned in the fall of 1958 while Mr. and Mrs. Astor were visiting England. As Mrs. Astor recounted in her 1980 autobiography, "Vincent amused himself by having old Mr. Bulgari come over from Rome to discuss an emerald necklace and earrings for me." After spending the afternoon with the couple, Mr. Bulgari returned to Rome to contemplate the design of the suite. Mrs. Astor later noted that, "Vincent was very pleased with himself." It was shortly after this trip to England, in February of 1959, that Vincent passed away. As far as Mrs. Astor knew, the design for the emerald suite remained a mystery.

It came as quite a surprise to Mrs. Astor when she received a package from Mr. Bulgari nearly two years later. As Mrs. Astor wrote, "A strange thing happened at this very moment. Mr. Bulgari, the Italian jeweler, sent over a colored transparency of the emerald necklace and earrings for which we had selected the stones in London in 1958." Attached to the transparency was a note from Vincent, asking that the pieces be completed in time for Mrs. Astor's birthday in March. Having recently returned from a yacht voyage with friends and in the midst of implementing changes within the Astor Foundation, Mrs. Astor felt that the timing was inopportune for such a lavish present. However, after some reassuring words from her banker and further admiration of the design, Mrs. Astor moved forward with the purchase concluding that the necklace "is pretty and not ostentatious but very elegant."

The emerald and diamond necklace is distinguished both by its impressive design and by Mrs. Astor's emotional ties to it. Mrs. Astor explained this connection in her autobiography writing, "Considering that it was really Vincent's last personal gift to me, I am very sentimental about it, and I felt that it was a sign of encouragement from Vincent."