Platinum, Diamond, Onyx and Emerald Panther Brooch, Cartier, Paris

Designed as a panther in repose with an articulated tail and paws and a head that swivels, set with round diamonds weighing 17.42 carats, accented by an onyx nose and spots, further decorated with two pear-shaped emerald eyes weighing .20 carat, signed Cartier Paris, numbered 103772, also signed Cartier, numbered 11149, with French assay and workshop marks. With signed box.

In very good condition, with light surface scratching commensurate with wear. The 819 round diamonds are approximately G-I color, VVS-VS clarity with some SI examples. Set with 188 onyx spots. The emeralds are of decorative quality. Exceptionally well-made, the legs and tail are articulated and the head can twist.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Viewed as a symbol of power, valor and the exotic, the panther motif utilized by Cartier is one of the most iconic jewelry designs of the twentieth century. Although the design house drew inspiration from spotted panther coats in pieces dated as early as 1914, the concept expanded dramatically upon Jeanne Toussaint’s appointment as creative director in 1918. Dubbed ‘The Panther,’ Toussaint’s chic and contemporary personal style helped the feline-inspired creations to flourish.

Throughout the 1920s, vanity cases proved to be the ideal canvas on which Cartier was able to display the panther in its entirety. Often depicted amongst lush landscapes, these designs became the jeweled counterparts to Paul Jouve’s illustrations in Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book. It was not until 1948, when the Duke of Windsor commissioned a golden panther atop a cabochon emerald, that the once two-dimensional cat burst with life in a new series of three-dimensional designs.

Displaying skillfull craftsmanship, the new panther designs featured flexible platinum settings which allowed the paws, tail and head of the cat to move with the same agility of those in the wild. In addition to the Duchess of Windsor, the Great Cat jewels were admired and commissioned by Princess Nina Aga Khan, Barbara Hutton and Daisy Fellowes, among others. Embodying a delicate balance between unbridled power and reserved elegance, Cartier’s panther jewels continue to bring allure and glamour to those they adorn.