18 Karat Gold, Mother-Of-Pearl, Coral and Onyx Brooch, Cartier, Paris

Designed as a face set with mother-of-pearl plaques, with a coral mask accented by black onyx eyes and black enamelwork, signed Cartier Paris, numbered 12913 and indistinctly numbered 701223, with French assay marks.

In very good condition. The coral is medium pinkish orange with a spot of white mottling at the side of the mask. The mother-of-pearl plaques are well-matched and exhibit subtle orient and sheen. The enamel exhibiting one noticeable chip by the nose of the mask and a few other minute chips only visible under magnification. The gold with some scratching due to age. The brooch bears assay marks for both gold and platinum, but appears to be exclusively gold.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

During the 1930s Cartier introduced the idea of the “novelty brooch”. Meant to be worn during the day, these brooches were inspired by a fascination with the exotic. Blackamoor heads were especially en vogue during this time as Diana Vreeland heralded them as “the chic of Paris in the late 1930s”. Bolstered by the endorsement of the fashion elite, Cartier continued to experiment with these brooches, creating new, whimsical forms that remained popular well into the 1970s.

This particular brooch, designed as a stylized Venetian mask, was likely inspired by the re-emergence of Venice as a popular spot for the international jet-set during the 1950s. If one was lucky enough to be invited to the exclusive masquerade balls in Venice, masks were as de rigueur as couture for entry. Wearing Cartier’s “Mask brooch” showed an appreciation for Venetian culture while also signaling an inclusion in the upper echelons of society.

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits are required for export. If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewelry Department before bidding.