Pair of Platinum, Rock Crystal, Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Clips, Cartier, Circa 1935

Of geometric design, the carved rock crystal clips centered by four rectangular modified mixed-cut pink tourmalines, accented by round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.00 carat, each signed Cartier. With signed box.

In good condition with some scratching and nicking to the rock crystal. Evidence of a small amount of solder repair to the top of one of the clips. The pink tourmalines are medium-light pink and well matched for color, slightly included with some abrading at the facet junctions. The tourmalines are slightly more violetish pink than depicted in the printed catalogue. The 38 diamonds are approximately F-H color, predominantly VS clarity. Signed on the back of the hinged clip.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Illustrated in Art Deco Jewelry by Laurence Mouillefarine and Evelyne Possémé, page 115.

In 1933, Louis Cartier appointed Jeanne Toussaint the director of Cartier’s haute joaillerie department in Paris, ceding complete creative control as he moved to New York. In that role, Toussaint revolutionized the Cartier oeuvre, moving past the colorless diamond and platinum designs of the 1920s. Her avant-garde designs were matched by the technical innovations at Cartier in the 1930s. Toussaint popularized the use of carved rock crystal in geometrical designs, with a particular focus on rectilinear patterns. The clips offered here are emblematic of her designs, blending the architectural feel with the striking look of bright colors. While embracing the industrial ethos of the age, Toussaint took Cartier’s jewelry in a striking new direction that made them one of the pre-eminent jewelers of the age.