Lot 52
  • 52

Carved Emerald Taviz, 19th Century

Estimate
80,000 - 120,000 USD
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Description

  • loose emerald
Weighing 30.44 carats, measuring approximately 31.58 by 26.86 by 4.80 mm., the back engraved with an Arabic inscription from Chapter XXI, verse 87 of the Koran which, according to one translation, reads: 'There is no God but thou: I was indeed wrong!', the front engraved with a foliate motif, drilled at either end.

Condition

The emerald is a deep, richly saturated slightly bluish-green. Heavily included but transparent and "gemmy". Some surface-reaching inclusions and cavities, primarily to the obverse (side with foliate engraving). The inscription is in low-relief but highly legible. Drilled with two holes at either end to allow for wear as a bead. The taviz itself may be of an earlier date than the inscription, and the country of origin is probably India. Please refer to AGL report no. CS 48156 stating that the emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional; and Gübelin report no. 11055141 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, indications of minor clarity enhancement. Also accompanied by GRS report no. GRS2011-094070 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, insignificant clarity enhancement; and C. Dunaigre report no. CDC 1101001 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, indications of insignificant clarity enhancement.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 48156 stating that the emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional; and Gübelin report no. 11055141 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, indications of minor clarity enhancement.

The present carved emerald originally formed the centerpiece of a bazuband or armband and was likely set in the Kudan style, backed by gold foil and surrounded by other precious stones such as diamonds and rubies.  As a decorative ornament, the bazuband was usually worn in pairs and was an essential part of princely ceremonial attire in India.  Miniature paintings from the Mughal period depict emperors laden with pearls and colored gemstones and it is not unusual to find a carved emerald at the center of an important jewel, whether an armband, necklace or turban ornament.

The emeralds from these royal collections were frequently of Colombian origin. This "old mine" material, discovered by the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century, made its way to India through Spanish and Portuguese trade routes.  Before the discovery of these New World deposits, the only known source of emeralds was Egypt.  The Egyptian stones, however, were of insignificant size and quality and the Mughal rulers, as great connoisseurs of gems, immediately recognized the superior color and transparency of the Colombian crystals.

Gemstones were far more than adornment for Indian royalty. In addition to being symbols of wealth and power, they carried a mystical significance. The emerald offered here bears an Arabic inscription from the Koran, indicating its use as a taviz or talisman. It was thought that the magical quality inherent to the emerald itself would be augmented by the power of the verse in the carving. Although stones have been engraved since ancient times, Indian lapidaries, entrusted with the finest material such as the present example, possessed the skill to turn gemstones into works of art.