18 Karat Gold and Gem-Set Vanity Case, Suzanne Belperron, Paris, Circa 1945

The polished gold case of lunette design pavé-set in the front with fancy-shaped rubies, sapphires, colored sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines, citrines, amethysts and peridots, may include some synthetic and simulated stones, the interior fitted with a mirror, removable lipstick case, and small compartment, gross weight approximately 109 dwts., measuring approximately 3½ by 2 3/8  by ¾ inches, maker's mark for Jules Lefevre, French assay marks.

c.f. Culme, John, and Nicholas Rayner.  The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, New York: Vendome Press, 1987, p.132.

In good general condition. The gold maintains a high polish with light scratching and very minor denting. The gemstones present a variety of lively shades and are primarily eye-clean to lightly included with some heavily included examples; three of the rubies with surface-reaching inclusions and cavities. Depending on the aesthetic needs of the work at hand, Belperron frequently integrated synthetic and simulated gemstones into her designs. The manner in which the stones are set into the present compact restricts the ability to determine the exact nature of each gemstones but, bearing in mind Belperron's habit of combining "vrai" with "faux," we may assume one or more examples fall into the latter category. The maker's mark for Jules Lefèvre may be found on the lid and base interiors. The mirror is in good condition with minor discoloration near the edges.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Together with a Certificate of Authenticity from Belperron stating that the colored stone and gold vanity case was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1958 from a design by Suzanne Belperron.

A similar compact by Belperron was sold in The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor by Sotheby's in April 1987, lot 33.