White Gold, Diamond and Enamel Pendant-Brooch, Jean Fouquet, France, Circa 1930

The rectangular plaque of polished white gold, the bombé center set with old mine, old European-cut and rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 5.00 carats, accented by a corrugated white gold band flanked by black enamel stripes, signed Jean Fouquet, numbered 22555, French assay mark, pendant hooks later added.

The mounting with overall wear and light scratching; minor surface irregularities to the front where the pendant hooks attach to the reverse. The reeded central panel is a slightly more yellow shade of gold. The 34 diamonds are approximately I-J color, VS-SI clarity. Very minor enamel loss at the terminals. Signed Jean Fouquet along the top rim between the pendant hooks, the numbering is on the opposite side. The assay mark may be found at the brooch's base below the numbering. The circa date of 1930 derived from pendant dated 1929 and numbered 22429 on p. 136 of "Les Fouquet: Bijoutiers & Joailliers à Paris 1860-1960".
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

For examples of other pendants of rectangular design see Les Fouquet: Bijoutiers & Joailliers à Paris 1860-1960, by Marie-Noël de Gary, pp. 136-137.

Jean Fouquet (1899-1984) joined his family's well-established firm Maison Fouquet in 1919 under the direction of his legendary father, Georges Fouquet.  Prior to this, he had received a classical education, originally intending to become a lawyer but went on to study literature; he also dabbled in writing short plays and detective stories.  At the Paris Exposition held in 1925, his name first appears in conjunction with other designers who also worked for the firm. From 1925 to 1937 he participated in a number of international exhibitions. Jean Fouquet was a devoted proponent of the emerging "modern" aesthetic in jewelry design influenced by the machine age and the tenets of Cubism. The jewels he created were avante-garde, including materials little used in jewelry at the time: chrome-plated steel, ebony and silver. He deliberately chose grey and white gold over platinum, most often with polished surfaces. Enamel, lacquer and semi-precious stones figured often in his designs. The pendant offered here dates to his most energetic period.  The effects of the 1929 Stock Market crash had a devastating effect on Maison Fouquet and they closed in 1936. Jean Fouquet went on to design under his own name at various salons until 1963. He died in 1984 just a few weeks after the ceremony held at the Musée des Art Decoratifs honoring the achievements of Maison Fouquet over three generations. More recently, a number jewels by Jean Fouquet were included in the exhibition held there: Bijoux des Art Deco et Avante-Garde, 19 March-12 July, 2009.