Ruby and diamond jarretière bracelet, Cartier, 1930s

Designed as a band set with lines of carré-cut rubies in concealed settings, to a diamond clasp of stylised bow design set with circular-cut and baguette diamonds and a tassel of navette and baguette diamonds, length approximately 195mm, signed Cartier and numbered, maker's mark, fitted case signed Cartier.

Cf: Franco Cologni and Eric Nussbaum "Platinum by Cartier, Triumphs of the Jeweler's Art" , Harry N. Abrams Inc, 1995, page 217 for an illustration of a Cartier brooch employing concealed settings.

Rubies of Burmese origin cannot be imported into the US. This piece may contain rubies of Burmese origin and therefore may not be able to be imported into the US. Certification of non-Burmese origin will be required before import of rubies into the US. Please see our Important Notices and contact the jewellery department for further information. Stamped Pt 950 for platinum, clasp stamped OR for gold. Signed Cartier London, stamped JC for Cartier London, numbered 937, inside of fitted case also numbered 937. Approximately 252 calibré-cut rubies, some typical crystal inclusions, few chips and abrasions, well matched in colour. Diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 5.00-7.00 carats, on average F-H colour, VS clarity, as gauged and graded in mounting. Slight wear to metal consistent with age and use. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Beginning in the early twentieth century, many jewellers experimented with the concept of mounting gem stones so that the setting was concealed from the reverse.  This ‘invisible setting’ or ‘mystery setting’ was created by using stones calibrated to very close tolerances, cut with grooved girdles and locked in place with a thin wire framework.