Enamel, rock crystal and diamond brooch, Cartier, 1920s

Set at the centre with an open work red enamel plaque of Chinese inspiration, within a frame of  rock crystal set between a pair of red enamel  flame motifs set with circular-cut diamonds, signed Cartier and indistinctly numbered.

Cf: Judy Rudoe, 'Cartier 1900-1939', British Museum Press 1997, page 195 for an illustration of a pair of Cartier earrings incorporating red enamel panels.

Signed Cartier to reverse and indistinctly numbered. Rock crystal frame in very good condition, some scratches and abrasions consistent with age. Red enamel with loss to the tip of the flame motif (visible on the picture) and some smaller losses/chips on the central motif, old repair to the reverse. Diamond estimated to weigh a total of approximately 3.00-4.00 carats, bright and lively. Signs of normal wear to the metal, consistent with age. Well preserved.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

While Chinese motifs have been found in European art since the seventeenth century, the vogue for this influence was renewed in the first decades of the twentieth century, peaking in the 1920s.  Referred to as Chinoiserie, this fanciful imagery could be found in all of the arts: visual and decorative, literary and performance.  Jewellery was of course not exempt.  The use of Chinese dragons by Cartier, for example, can be found as early as 1903.