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Details & Cataloguing

Magnificent Jewels

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Geneva

Enamel, rock crystal and diamond brooch, Cartier, 1920s
Set at the centre with an open work red enamel plaque of Chinese inspiration, within a frame of  rock crystal set between a pair of red enamel  flame motifs set with circular-cut diamonds, signed Cartier and indistinctly numbered.
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Literature

Cf: Judy Rudoe, 'Cartier 1900-1939', British Museum Press 1997, page 195 for an illustration of a pair of Cartier earrings incorporating red enamel panels.

Catalogue Note

While Chinese motifs have been found in European art since the seventeenth century, the vogue for this influence was renewed in the first decades of the twentieth century, peaking in the 1920s.  Referred to as Chinoiserie, this fanciful imagery could be found in all of the arts: visual and decorative, literary and performance.  Jewellery was of course not exempt.  The use of Chinese dragons by Cartier, for example, can be found as early as 1903.

Magnificent Jewels

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Geneva