Sapphire and diamond brooch/pendant, circa 1910

The surmount pierced and millegrain-set with French-cut sapphires, circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, collet-set at the centre with a circular-cut sapphire and similarly cut diamonds, suspending an articulated pendant composed of foliate motifs and lines of circular-cut sapphires, terminating on three pear-shaped diamonds, French assay marks.

Adriana Guillichini della Gherardesca and thence by descent.

Cf: Diana Scarisbrick, ed. Emmanuel Ducamp, Chaumet, joailler depuis 1780, Paris, 1995, page 173 and 175 for examples of jewels of a similar style with tassels and foliate and muguet motifs.

Cf: David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, Suffolk, 2003, page 283 for an example of a sapphire and diamond corsage ornament by Chaumet, circa 1910 with similarly designed tassels.

Cf: Sotheby's, Jewels, Thursday 28th October 1976, Lot 147, where the Chaumet jewel mentioned in Understanding Jewellery was sold.

Brooch fitting stamped with French assay marks for 18 carat gold. Pear shaped diamonds each measuring approximately 11.7 x 7.1 x 3.0 mm, 11.2 x 7.3 x 3.4mm, 10.3 x 7.0 x 3.1 mm, calculated to weigh approximately 1.75, 1.96, 1.57 carats respectively, estimated colour H-J, estimated clarity SI-I on average. Remaining diamonds weighing approximately 8.00-10.00 carats, estimated colour H-J, estimated clarity VS-I on average. Sapphires medium vivid slightly violetish blue, typical inclusions, such as fingerprints and crystals visible under magnification, well matched in colour. Pendant and brooch fitting detachable using a key, not supplied. Pendant flexible and well articulated. Secure catch to pin. In good condition. Image in catalogue portraying Adriana Guillichini della Gherardesca.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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This wonderful pendant comes from the last flowering of the Belle Epoque and probably dates to the last few years before the First World war. A time of great economic success in Europe which led to excesses in the display of wealth. Extravagant jewels were worn in abundance on elaborate, richly layered evening gowns. Society was entranced by the Ballets Russes staged by Diaghilev with Nijinsky dancing in exotic and colourful costumes and sets designed by Leon Bakst inspired  by Persia, Russia and the Orient. Many of these influences are evident in the design of this jewel with its ogive surmount  that could have come from a mosque in Isfahan, while the tassels are drawn from the vernacular of contemporary design, notably the Garland Style developed by Cartier and embraced by so many Parisian houses from Chaumet to Boucheron.