L12211

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Lot 445
  • 445

A BLUE-GROUND EMBROIDERED DRAGON ROBE, JIFU QING DYNASTY, JAIQING / DAOGUANG PERIOD

Estimate
18,000 - 22,000 GBP
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Description

  • textile
woven with eight gold five-claw dragons on a blue-ground amid ruyi clouds, bats and the bajixiang, all above foaming waves crashing against a mountain, hemmed with a lishui border, the robe also features the auspicious double catfish design, niannian.

Provenance

Sotheby’s New York, 26th March 1996, lot 134

Literature

Patricia Bjaaland Welch, Chinese Art. A Guide to Motifs and Visual Imagery, Vermont, 2008, p. 99, fig. 185 (detail).

Condition

The robe has various areas of tear and loss to the olive-green sleeves (the largest area measuring circa 6 x 1cm) which is also evident at places in the catalogue illustration. The robe is possibly lengthened as seen in a pronounced rib caused by folding 7cm up the hem. There are several areas of loose threads particularly around the collar and to the bottom right dragon on the front. The textile and threads shows general colour fading but the robe is otherwise in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Jifu (semi-formal court robes) of this type, richly embroidered with eight dynamic dragons and the bajixiang, were reserved for the officials of the fourth, fifth and sixth ranks and their wives. These robes were worn at the Qing court for imperial birthday celebrations and on less formal occasions, together with the jifu dai (festive dress belt), the jiguan (festive hat), the court necklace and a surcoat. According to Linda Wigglesworth and Gary Dickinson, in Imperial Wardrobe, Berkeley, 2000, p. 159, the tailoring of the jifu is quite different from the chaopao (official court robe) and was based on the traditional Manchu garment rather than the Ming-style formal dress construction. A related empress's robe, but embroidered with nine dragons amongst clouds and the bajixiang amongst the waves on a dark blue ground, in the Qing Court collection and still in Beijing, is published in The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace Museum. Costumes and Accessories of the Qing Court, Hong Kong, 2005, pl. 96; and a later example decorated with the bajixiang and the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority on yellow silk, was sold at Christie's New York, 21st September 2004, lot 87.