A fine Sogdian silk lampas textile fragment, Central Asia, 8th/9th Century

composed of different silk panels stitched together, woven with red, green, honey and blue threads, the central section with four roundels enclosing confronting pheasants standing on a stylised lotus, the centre with a quatrefoil medallion featuring two confronting ducks, the sections to the sides with winged horses, the roundels consisting of several concentric elements or curving coloured petals, mounted against a silk background on board

In general good condition, wear to surface, particularly on bottom left corner, some slight tears, especially near edges, some staining, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This large silk textile represents the main section of a Sogdian robe or vest, and evinces, not only the quality of Sogdian silk production in the seventh and eighth centuries, but also the inventiveness of the designs that were created within a broadly homogenous repertoire from China to Central Asia and beyond. Featuring confronting pheasants standing on stylised trees within lobed medallions and confronting winged horses within wreaths on the edges, this silk textile fragment can be compared with the designs adorning robes, vests, trousers and other fragments from this period, all of a quality associated with luxury, probably courtly, production.

Sogdian silk production was highly influenced by trade with China, whist decorative motifs were often derived from Sasanian models to the west. "Medallion silks" can first be seen on the robe of Khusraw (Chosroes) II ‘Parvis’ (r.590-628) on the rock-relief at Taq-i Bustan in Western Iran (Rogers 2007, p.55). The fragment of a silk robe in the Khalili Collection of Art shows a lobed medallion with two confronting winged horses between a ‘Tree of Life’ (ibid., p.55, no. 44, inv. no.TXT 245). A vest in the Cleveland Museum of Art shows two confronting ducks in a beaded roundel (inv. no.1996.2.1), and a robe sold in these rooms on the 25 April 2012 featured two confronting lions. This silk fragment belongs to this same tradition of Sogdian silk textiles adorned with motifs expressing a common language of luxury, wealth, trade and diplomacy.

For a full discussion on luxury-silk weaving under the Sogdians in Central Asia, see: Watt, J., and A., Wardwell, When Silk was Gold: Central Asian and Chinese Textiles, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1997, pp.21-37.