A Brocade `Kemha' Fragment, Ottoman

woven with foliate and flowering repeat motif, in cerise with golden ground, shaped section, mounted in later stretcher

Kelekian Collection, Paris

Couleurs d'Orient, Brussels, 2010;
Turkophilia, Paris, 2011

La Collection Kelekian, Paris, 1908, pl.63;
Brussels 2010, pg.37;
Paris 2011, pg 65.

Textile panel: 60 by 25cm.; 1ft. 11in., 10in. shaped & stepped at one end. Colours are tonally correct. The red mount material is not as bold and strident in reality. The cerise of the kehma panel is richer and exuberant, and the `yellow' (metal-thread brocade) cleaner and the overall appearance is defined and more lively. Some light vertical abrasion in the satin ground; this is less noticeable in reality than in the photograph. Vestiges of original selvedge in the left hand side. Original selvedge visible on the left side. Abrasions to the cut edges. Some loose threads, losses and abrasions, as visible in the photograph.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

For an example of a `kehma' fabric with similar colouring and design, dated mid 16^th century, from the Victoria and Albert Museum, see Gürsu, Nevber, The Art of Turkish Weaving, Designs through the Ages, Istanbul, 1988, pg. 80, pl.75., which illustrates the intersection  of the cintamani, stem and leaves above, which are very similar to the section on the present panel, repeated in two sections up the right side, both in gold, with blue highlights, dark edging, and on a cerise ground.

For a very similar panel in design and colouring, incorporating the same elements of leopard spots, tiger stripes, tulips, carnations, serrated leaves on interlaced scrolling  stems, on cerise ground, see King, Donald, Imperial Ottoman Textiles, Exhibition Catalogue, Colnaghi, London, Introduction by Michael Goedhuis, cat.no. 10, pp.26-27, fig.10 (147cm. by 66cm), Turkish, dated 17^th century. Another similar fragment is from the Kunstmuseum, Dusseldorf, dated first half 17th century, and illustrated in Erber, Christian, A Wealth of Silk and Velvet, Bremen, 1993, no. G 5/1, pp.134-135.