Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Near Colorless Diamond Ring, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., 1972

The cushion-shaped diamond of fancy vivid yellow color weighing 11.13 carats., framed by bees set with small round and marquise-shaped near colorless diamonds weighing approximately 2.05 carats, size 6¼, signed Tiffany, Schlumberger.  With box signed Tiffany & Co. designed by Schlumberger.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2135024128 stating Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, VS2 clarity. The mounting set with 42 round and 6 marquise-shaped diamonds approximately E-F color and VVS-VS clarity. Signed Tiffany Schlumberger on plaques applied to the undergallery of center diamond. In good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2135024128 stating Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, VS2 clarity.

For a ring of similar design, see The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger, Chantal Bizot, pp. 54-55, 140.

French-born jeweler Jean Schlumberger began designing in the mid-1930s, catering to a well-heeled clientele that included the Princess de Faucigny, the Duchess of Kent and, legendary within the jewelry collecting world, socialite Daisy Fellowes.  His career was already well-established when he opened his New York store in 1947, but it was his collaboration with Tiffany & Co. starting in 1956 that sealed his reputation as one of the great designers of the 20^th century.

Schlumberger's whimsical creations flourished in the non-conformist spirit of the 1960s and 70s, his designs embraced by well-bred women who wished to wear something unorthodox and eccentric while remaining comfortably within the realm of good taste.  He frequently took inspiration from nature, with flora and fauna figuring prominently into his more iconic works: peridot seahorses, moonstone jellyfish, sapphire thistles and, in the present example, diamond bees.  The color of the ring's 11.13-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond—sweetly evocative of a drop of honey—is so vibrant that it is hard to conceive it was created by nature alone.

Prince Napoleon, Pretender to the Imperial Crown of France and descendant of Jerome, Napoleon I's youngest brother, commissioned the first "bee ring."  Lifted from the Napoleonic coat of arms and a symbol of the Empire, the bee was an apt motif for mounting a diamond once owned by his great-great-aunt Josephine.  Prince Napoleon was reportedly so delighted with the design that he gave Schlumberger permission to reproduce it.  Another notable bee ring, supporting a white diamond weighing 8.23 carats, was in the collection of Betsey Cushing Whitney and offered for sale by Sotheby's in 1998.  All known bee rings feature a generously-sized center stone upheld by dainty diamond-set bees, reflecting the balance of profusion and restraint that is emblematic of Schlumberger's work.  The design also encapsulates Schlumberger's wonderful ability to lend a touch of levity to serious jewelry, transforming what would otherwise be a straightforward display of wealth into something infinitely more fun and wearable.