Sapphire, emerald, black opal and diamond jabot pin, circa 1915

Of papyrus and lotus flower design, set with black opals, rose and circular-cut diamonds, calibré-cut sapphires and emeralds, mounted in platinum, French assay and maker's marks.

Cf: Judy Rudoe, 'Cartier 1900 - 1939' London, 1997, page 304 for similar designs by Cartier.

The knotted lotus bunch and papyrus became a popular jewellery motif well before the First World War and was pioneered by Cartier. As early as 1910 drawings and designs by Cartier were copied directly from Owen Jones's Grammar of Ornament, published in London in 1856; it presented a survey of decorative styles from Ancient Egypt to nineteenth Century Europe and remained a classic source book for decades. French assay marks for platinum and maker's mark (ED and a symbol partially rubbed). Black opals with good play of colour, some surface reaching inclusions, some cracked and one chipped but not distracting when worn. Diamonds bright and lively. Signs of wear to the metal consistent to the age of the piece. In good condition.
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The knotted lotus bunch and papyrus became a popular jewellery motif well before the First World War and was pioneered by Cartier.  As early as 1910 drawings and designs by Cartier were copied directly from Owen Jones's Grammar of Ornament, published in London in 1856; it presented a survey of decorative styles from Ancient Egypt to nineteenth Century Europe and remained a classic source book for decades.