GOLD, AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND RING, GRIMA, 1976

Set with a pear-shaped aquamarine, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, size N, sizing band, signed Grima, British hallmarks for London, 1976, pouch Grima.

Cf: Grima, ed Johann Willsberger, 1991 and exibition catalogue, Grima, Retrospective Goldsmiths' Hall, 1991, page 64, item where aquamarine rings in a similar style are illustrated.

Stamped 750 for 18 carat gold. British hallmarks for London, 1976. Signed Grima. Aquamarine medium light blue, eye clean. Diamonds bright and lively. Resizing band. Light scratches to band consistent with wear. In good condition. Accompanied by pouch signed Grima. Accompanied by Facsimile of original drawing by Grima.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Andrew Grima (1921 – 2007) was a master of contemporary British jewellery design, at his most prolific in the 1960s and 70s.  With his highly distinctive style, Grima aspired "to make gold look like material which nature might have produced"; he cast leaves and bark using the lost wax process to develop unusual textured organic jewels in gold, this became the hallmark of his work.  One such commission from HRH Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon, was to create a jewel from a piece of lichen that she had sent to Grima in 1967.

Grima had no formal jewellery training, eschewing the polished mirror-like surfaces of traditional jewel design in favour of texture and abstract form.  He preferred to work with gold, rather than silver or platinum, creating extraordinary and original effects.  More interested in artistic impact than material value, he often chose unusual stones in unconventional shapes, using gems in their natural form such as crystalised agates, geodes and even shells in his pieces.  Grima's jewels were often innovative and whimsical, adding minimal embellishments to inspire the imagination of his clients.  

Both modest and personable, Grima counted Royalty and filmstars amongst his clientele; he was awarded a Royal Warrant in 1966 which he held for twenty years.  He won many prestigious jewellery honours including twelve De Beers International awards and the Duke of Edinburgh's Prize for Elegant Design for several pieces.  A retrospective of Grima's work was displayed at Goldsmiths' Hall in the City of London to mark the occasion of his 70^th Birthday in 1991. 

Grima's second wife Jojo together with his daughter Frances still design jewellery, keeping his unique style alive.