A NAGA HEADDRESS, PROBABLY TANGKHUL TRIBE, NAGALAND, NORTH-EAST INDIA

Composed of hornbill feathers, brass, human and goat hair, job's tears, red seeds, wood, woven cane basket work, cotton threads and copper wire, with later local repairs in pink thread

India, Art and Culture 1300-1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1985

Welch 1985, p.76, no.32

In generally fair overall condition, some wear, fraying, losses and soiling throughout associated with tribal usage, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This magnificent headdress was worn by a leading male tribesman for ceremonial or ritual dress. Each of the adornments act as indicators of earned status of the wearer. The means of earning the right to wear these elements varied from tribe to tribe. The hornbill is a particularly important bird for all the Naga groups and they indicate high status of one form or another (Jacobs 1990, p.108). Amongst the Ao, one feather indicates one head taken whereas two feathers shows that the wearer was the first to spear an enemy in a kill. Amongst the Sema a hornbill feather simply indicates warrior status, as is the case for the Rengma, the Konyak and the Kalyo-Kengyu.

The local Political Agent in the early years of the 20th century, Lt. Colonel J. Shakespear, recorded a Tangkhul tribesman in the Somra Tract wearing a very similar headdress, though lacking the hornbill feathers (above). Another example in a private collection is more closely comparable to the present headdress (Jacobs 1990, p.229). A further example is in the National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum, New Delhi, inv. no. 86/7110 (Jain and Aggarwala 1989, p.168).