A Rare and Important Silk Tunic With Arabic Inscription, Sogdiana, Central Asia, 8th Century

composed of four different silks sown together, decorated with repeating roundel designs, including a paired cow suckling her calf being attacked by a lion to the front, paired deer facing each other on the sleeves, and paired pheasants with a stylised lotus between their beaks on the reverse, the roundels consisting of several concentric elements or curving coloured petals with a variety of motifs depicted between them  

In overall fair condition, some alterations, ragged towards bottom, discoloration due to running of dye, surface generally well preserved. [The garment as a whole demonstrates signs of alterations during its life, it is possible that some of these are not ancient, as viewed.]
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

inscriptions

Repeated in both negative and positive, undeciphered, apart from the word li'llah 'God's'

Composed of at least four types of silks woven principally with red, dark blue, green, white, and dark yellow threads, this tunic demonstrates a variety of Sassanian derived textile motifs. The original and principal textile of the garment is decorated with large roundels featuring a cow suckling her calf being attacked by a lion above her. The space in between the roundels is filled with a symmetrical quatrefoil enclosing palmettes. The deer within the roundels on the sleeves are decorated with a geometric pattern of right-angled motifs. This design is similar to that of other silks representing deer in the Abegg-Stiftung museum, Riggisberg, Switzerland (no.4901). The roundel designs on the reverse garment show pheasants standing on a small vegetal platform with stylised lotuses between their beaks. A small woven inscription in white was recently discovered by the seam near the shoulder and has been revealed by recent conservation. The lining silk visible at the bottom of the garment and behind the neck is plain in a simple, fine tabby weave, made of silk yarn without twist, a typical Chinese product.