Lot 3041
  • 3041

JADEITE, GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL VANITY CASE, CIRCA 1925, Cartier, Paris

Estimate
80,000 - 150,000 HKD
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Description

  • Cartier, Paris
  • jadeite, hardstone, onyx, enamel, platinum, gold
  • Jadeite carving approximately 51.98 x 17.20 x 2.65mm.
Of cylindrical form, set with a pink coloured hardstone decorated on the front with a jadeite carving, opening to reveal two compartments, one for a powder puff and brush, and a separate compartment housing a dance card, decorated by onyx plaques and rose-cut diamonds, to a chain decorated with black enamel and an onyx hoop, mounted in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold, case measuring approximately 84.00 x 47.15 x 27.35mm, signed Cartier New York, Paris, Londres and numbered 1493, with French assay marks.

Condition

Colour and Clarity: In our opinion, the carved jadeite is natural, of strong apple green colour with good translucency. Upon illumination and loupe check, there are surface abrasions and a crack line on one end, not noticeable to naked eyes and not affecting the immediate integrity of the piece. Hardstone on the case is probably jasper chalcedony, of light raspberry pink colour with whitish quartzite streaks. Rose-cut diamonds, under 10x loupe, have surface abrasions, which consistent with its age. Signed "Cartier" to the interior of the vanity case. Condition: The Cartier vanity case is from the Estate of the late Anita Mui Yim Fong. Black enamel on the chain is slightly chipped, not noticeable. Two tiny rose-cut diamonds on the case are missing, not noticeable, unless very careful and loupe check. There should have mirror in the vanity case, probably broken and now missing. Moderate wear and surface abrasions, otherwise in good condition. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Prior to World War I, women used the utmost discretion in their application of cosmetics. But a spirit of emancipation in the 1920s established the convention that it was acceptable for woman of good society to touch up her makeup in public. The ingenious little box designed by jewels with compartments to hold powder, lipstick rouge and puffs won the approval of elegant women in America and Europe.
Chinese motifs began to influence style in 'haute couture' in around 1923, the year of the Paris Opera Chinese Ball. Fashionable women, drawn to the exoticism of Asia, were enticed by objects bearing decorative motifs of China or Japan. Jewellery often combined the two predominant tendencies of the Art Deco period: figurative scenes and geometric lines. The characteristics of the Twenties are reflected in lot 3041 which displays the enthusiasm for colour, use of carved hardstones as well as bright enamels. The in-depth character study for Anita's enchanting role in the famous movie 胭脂扣, stimulated her interest in vintage items, which spurred Anita to acquire this exquisite vanity case, purchased from Lane Crawford in the late 1980s.