Platinum and Diamond Rose Brooch, Circa 1930

Depicting a rose within an openwork frame, set throughout with pear-shaped, old European-cut, single-cut and rose-cut diamonds.

Old European-cut diamonds are bright and lively; approximately F-H color, approximately VS-SI with some abrading to the facet junctions. Rose-cut diamonds approximately near colorless, SI clarity with the occasional I clarity example. One modern round brilliant on the trim (near pin catch) a later replacement. Fitted with a pendant hook. The pinstem is released by rotating knob at left. This style of pin backing, i.e. tube or "trombone", was popular in the 1890s but can also be found on European pieces dating from the 30s and 40s. Pinstem appears to be gold with rhodium plating (wearing thin). Masterfully executed. Mounting in very good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Marlene Dietrich, legendary actress and singer, evokes a bygone era of glamour and sophistication.  She was often photographed by Edward Steichen, Cecil Beaton and Horst P. Horst, and is universally remembered as a trendsetter and fashion icon of the 20^th century.  Dietrich could be as alluring in a sequined gown with glittering jewels as she was in a tuxedo, top hat and monocle. One of her most dramatic jewels, a three-dimensional ruby and diamond cuff made by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1930's, which she famously wore in Stage Fright, was sold by Sotheby's New York in 1992 as part of her estate. 

The Marlene Rose, a stylized platinum and diamond rose in full bloom, was Marlene Dietrich's favorite brooch and her signature piece of jewelry.  It was given to her in the early 1930's by director Josef von Sternberg who is credited with launching her international film career. According to her family she wore it in several highly acclaimed films including The Blue Angel and Shanghai Express, and at events with Heads of State, celebrities and Hollywood insiders.