Fine onyx, enamel, rock crystal and diamond belt brooch, Cartier, 1924

The polished rock crystal rectangle flanked with ogee arch motifs set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, onyx and black enamel, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, case.

Cf: Mélissa Gabardi, Les Bijoux de l'Art Deco aux Anneés 40, Paris, 1986, page 80-89, and Franco Cologni, Eric Nussbaum, Cartier, le Joaillier du Platine, Milan, 1995, page 124-125 for other examples of hat pins/belt brooches by Cartier.

Cf: Judy Rudoe, Cartier 1900-1939, London 1997, page 56, for a page of designs for similar jewels from the London Design Scrapbook, circa 1922-1923.

Stamped with French assay marks for platinum, signed Cartier and numbered 01150, engraved Bte SGDG. Diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 3.89 carats in total, generally G-I colour, VS-SI clarity (a few I). Onyx with a few chips and minor abrasion but not distracting when worn, one stone with a small fracture. Minor scratches and some loss to the black enamel. Rock crystal with minor scratches, a few small chips at the back around terminals. Signs of normal wear to the metal commensurate with age. Overall well preserved and in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Designed to be worn either as a belt brooch or as a hat pin, this type of brooch was used to decorate the fashionable cloche hat of the 1920s, they were produced in a wide range of shape and colour, with rectangles or rings of rock crystal, onyx and coral.