THE EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND 20TH ANNIVERSARY BROOCH, MOUNTED BY CARTIER, PARIS, 1957

Of heart-shaped design, applied to the centre with a monogram of the initials W and E set with calibré-cut emeralds, above the Roman numeral XX set with calibré-cut rubies, surmounted by a Royal Duke's coronet similarly set, to a background pavé-set with brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 34mm x 38mm x 10mm, Cartier maker's mark and numbered, French assay marks.

Cf: Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Thursday 2nd April 1987, Lot 26.

Cf: Suzy Menkes, The Windsor Style, London, 1987, chapter entitled Objects of Desire with details of several items in the jewellery collection of the Duchess of Windsor including the Anniversary heart brooch.

Cf: Stefano Papi & Alexandra Rhodes, Famous Jewelry Collectors, London, 1999, pages 114 – 129 regarding the Duchess of Windsor's jewellery collection.

Stamped with French assay marks for platinum and 750 and French assay marks for 18 carat gold; maker's marks; numbered N9479. Circular-cut diamonds very bright and lively, stated to weigh 5.92 carats as recorded in Cartier's Archives. Emeralds weighing approximately 1.00 - 1.50 carats, well matched, medium green in colour, medium saturation, typical inclusions visible with magnification, chips, nicks and abraded facet junctions. No calibré-cut emerald presently deficient which was mentioned in the original cataloguing of this piece. Rubies weighing approximately 0.30 - 0.50 carat, well matched, pinkish red hue, medium saturation, few nicks. Safety catch to pin secure. Scratches to mount consistent with age and wear. Accompanied by fitted case made by Cartier after 1987 sale at Sotheby's. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This jewel was created in May 1957 by Cartier commissioned by the Duke to commemorate the Duke and Duchess of Windsor's Twentieth Wedding Anniversary.  This jewel was composed of gems un-set from other pieces belonging to the Duke. 

Throughout their time together the Duke and Duchess assembled  a personal collection of jewels that were often very thoughtful, romantic and poignant to them. Her collection was composed mostly of modern and contemporary jewels by designers and houses including Suzanne Belperron, David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier.  These jewels were often created specifically for the Duchess, sometimes using gems from the Duke's collection.