A gem-set gold necklace, South India, 19th Century

the mango-shaped beads supported on a knitted gold chain secured by gold loops, each with a central cut-diamond surrounded by cabochon rubies and emeralds, the foliate open-work pendant set with a central flower-head with diamond stamen and ruby petals amidst scrolling tendrils issuing buds and palmettes set with further rubies, emeralds and diamonds, gold bead fringing, gem-set clasp with a pair of addorsed peacocks

in good condition, some minor losses to rubies and small cracks to some of the diamonds, as viewed
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This mango bead necklace gembu rattinamangamalai would have been made in Tamil Nadu for secular or religious use and displays the South Indian preference for cabochon rubies. The gems are set using the kundala-velai technique which relates to the north Indian kundan tradition of using a lac-filled sheet of gold to secure the gem. A similar necklace is in The David Collection (see Untracht 1997, p.234, no.494).