Egyptian-Style Jeweled Scarab Belt Buckle, Cartier, Paris, 1926

The hinged gold mounting centering a cobalt blue scarab flanked by turquoise faience wings, all studded with small cabochon sapphires, the wings edged by round and baguette diamonds set in platinum and with black enamelled ridges, length 5 inches, signed Cartier, numbered 0123, French assay mark, workshop mark.

Cartier, 100 Years in America, New York and Beverly Hills, 2009.

Cartier, Jewelers Extraordinary, Hans Nadelhoffer, Harry N. Abrams, Inc, Publishers, 1984, plate 16, page 32.

Cartier 1900-1939, Judy Rudoe, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers and The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1997, page 14 and plate 251, page 305.

The hinged buckle is set with 56 old European- and baguette-cut diamonds weighing approximately 4.30 cts, approximately H-J color and VS-SI clarity. There are typical irregularities to the faience glass, including pitting and granular textured spotting; with some minor chipping on the scarab as well as the wings. The buff-top onyxes show a small amount of abrasion to the high relief points. Signed Cartier on the reverse of the frame of the scarab. Workshop and French assay marks in several places on the buckle. The workshop mark is an R with a crescent and flame for Renault who was an exclusive workshop for Cartier after the First World War. The piece is in good overall condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

The sketch of the belt buckle is from the Stock Design Record Book, 1926, page 53, Cartier archive, Paris.

Ancient faience is a manufactured material created to imitate the bright colors and gloss of precious stones.  It was used in jewelry throughout Egypt and the Near East beginning about 5500 years ago.  It was made by grinding quartz or sand crystals and mixing them with various levels of sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium and/or copper creating colors including turquoise, cobalt blue, purple and yellow and was shaped into such forms as amulets, beads, and scarabs.  Faience is considered one of the earliest forms of glass making.