Lot 125
  • 125

Patek Philippe

Estimate
30,000 - 50,000 USD
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Description

  • A FINE AND RARE WRISTWATCH WITH CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL IN AN 18K PINK GOLD FRENCH CASE1949 MVT 963876 'LES ARMES DE PARIS'
  • diameter 35 mm
* cal. 12-120 manual wind movement, 18 jewels * polychrome cloisonné enamel dial depicting a boat tossing amidst a stormy sea, applied gold Roman numerals at the quarters and applied dots * French case with snap back * dial and movement signed, case stamped with French goldmarks * Extract from the Archives confirming production of movement and sale on 11 July 1949

Condition

The movement is running, however it might requre service soon. The metal plate surrounding the movement is slightly pitted. The dial is clean and in nice overall condition without hairlines. The case shows general wear and there light scuffs to the outside of the back and bezel near 1 o'clock. Overall this is a wonderful watch and is especially rare. The case shows general wear throughout with surface scuffs to the sides and back. The strap of this watch contains endangered species; please refer to Important Notices for further information.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping.

Important Notice regarding importation into the United States of Rolex watches
Sotheby's cannot arrange for the delivery of Rolex watches to the United States because U.S. laws restricts the import of Rolex watches. The buyer or a designated agent may collect the property in the country of sale."

Catalogue Note

The dial of the present lot depicts the coat of arms of Paris and is attributed to Marguerite Koch, one of Geneva's best enamelers at the time. While working with Stern Frères, her specialty was in classic subjects, including boats, maps and sports themes.

Examples of her enamel dials include a map of North America on a white gold World Time wristwatch, as well as a rectangular scene of a tennis player. For a more comprehensive view of her work, see Huber, M., & Banbery, A., Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Vol. II, Second Edition, pp. 143-144, 206 and 242.

The Parisian coat of arms depicts an Egyptian boat at sea. The emblem is still found on many official monuments and buildings throughout the French capital. The city's motto corresponds to the theme: 'Fluctuat nec mergitur', which translated from the Latin to 'tossed but not submerged'. This theme was especially relevant in post-war France.

Patek Philippe wristwatches with cloisonné enamel dials are widely sought-after, and fully enameled dial plates such as this example are considered the most desirable among collectors. The use of a full plate allows a more expansive and detailed miniature painting as compared to those where only the central part of the plate was used.

Another Patek Philippe wristwatch with a similar dial, No. 963880, was sold at Sotheby's Geneva 9 May 1989, lot 143. That example was offered by the original owner, a Frenchman who purchased it in Paris at Guillermin, Patek Philippe's most important French retailer and agent, whose store in Place Vendôme is now the Patek Philippe boutique. Similarly, that piece was cased in France, had an identical signature to the dial and its movement number was close to that of the present example.

French-cased Patek Philippe watches were common during the late 1940s and early 1950s. The French government, reacting to its fragile post-war economy, placed importation restrictions on precious metals in jewelry and watches. Given these constraints, Patek Philippe worked closely with French firms, such as Guillermin, providing the movements under the agreement that Patek Philippe's standards would be upheld at a level suitable to bear the firm's signature.

The denotation 'Fab. Suisse', seen at the top of the dial of the present lot, became all the more important at this time, given the French market's unabated appetite for Swiss-made pieces. Due to these circumstances, at the time of its sale, this watch was simply marketed as a Patek Philippe watch, rather than a Patek Philippe movement with a French case. 

The close relationship between Patek Philippe and Guillermin is illustrated by the similarity between the case of the present lot and that of lot 137 from Sotheby's New York, 28 April 2009, which had a cloisonné enamel floral dial. The French case maker likely modeled the present case to the specifications for Ref. 2494.

Sotheby's is pleased to offer this watch for sale for the first time.