Natural pearl, gold, enamel and onyx collier de chien, Circa 1900

The eight strands of natural pearls measuring approximately 4.41 to 3.83 mm., anchored by an enameled plaque supporting a natural pearl tassel terminating in carved onyx drops, length 14 inches, unsigned.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115044107 stating natural pearls, saltwater. The pearls are a creamy golden hue with rich overtones of pink and peach; very good luster and well-matched. The enameling shows a few small spots of damage, but is in good conditon overall. The enamelled plaque swivels and swings freely from the clasp, allowing for lovely movement when worn.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115044107 stating natural pearls, saltwater.

Illustrated in Stephen Harrison, Emmanuel Ducamp and Jeannine Falino, Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique, pp. 5-7, cat. 99 and attributed to Falize Frères.  Exhibited October 19, 2008 through January 18, 2009 at the Cleveland Museum of Art.  The 19^th century French jeweler Alexis Falize and his son Lucien developed techniques and styles of enamel work inspired by motifs from various ancient cultures. During the decades of the 1860's and 70's they exhibited jewels in both the Persian and Indian styles. Several examples are illustrated in Falize: A Dynasty of Jewelers, by Katherine Purcell (pp.219-224).  The pearl strands or "fringe" suspended from the necklace offered here, represent elements of Indian jewelry design that appear in jewelry sketches by Falize, c.f. the earrings illustrated on p.221, no. 203. In the case of this necklace, the centered plaque of enamel with its flanking birds and floral motifs may have derived more from Indian sources rather than Persian, however in Falize's descriptions of their jewels, there is sometimes a blurred distinction between the two sources.  The styling of this necklace would have been suited to the fashion trend, late in the decade of 1890, for jewels worn high around the neck. Although this necklace does not bear the maker's mark for Falize Frères, it is entirely plausible that Falize was responsible for its manufacture.  Not all Falize jewels were signed, but can be recognized by their distinctive enamel work.