Lot 232
  • 232

PEARL, GEM-SET AND DIAMOND 'CARRÉ' BROOCH, BULGARI, 1992

Estimate
75,000 - 85,000 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

Centring on a button pearl weighing 26.63 carats, within a stylised flower motif set with calibré-cut buff-top rubies and emeralds, highlighted with baguette diamonds, signed Bulgari, accompanied by a facsimile of the original colour design, numbered B.C.I no. 9/89.

Literature

Cf: Amanda Triossi, Daniela Mascetti, Bulgari, Thames & Hudson, 2007, page 204 - 205 for examples of similar jewels and designs.

Condition

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that this lot contains ruby. Please refer to the Important Notices or contact the Jewellery department before bidding. Accompanied by a report from the Gem & Pearl Laboratory, no.01763, stating that the pearl was found to be a natural marine pearl. Accompanied by a facsimile of the original colour illustration for this design, numbered B.C.I no. 9/89. Stamped 750 for 18 carat gold and Italian assay marks, signed Bulgari with maker's marks. Pearl measuring approximately 16.7mm, medium lustre, subtle green and rosé overtones. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 7.50 - 8.50 carats, estimated colour G+, estimated clarity VS, (graded in yellow mount). Emeralds a medium green with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. Rubies a medium slightly pinkish (purplish) red. Well matched. In excellent condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by a report from the Gem & Pearl Laboratory, no.01763, stating that the pearl was found to be a natural marine pearl.

Colour is of paramount importance for Bulgari and the 'Carré' line of jewels, reminiscent of patterns of formal gardens or floor mosaics, is a celebration of it. Introduced in 1987, the 'Carré' line is characterised by a series of brooches where precious and semiprecious stones are calibrated to fit  the shape of the mount and often surround a central larger gem or an ancient gold coin. In the case of the brooch offered here, a unique piece, part of the Bulgari Collection International -BCI – later known as Bulgari High Jewellery,  the focal point is an exceptional natural pearl.