GOLD, GEM-SET AND DIAMOND BANGLE, BEFORE 1896

The hinged bangle applied with floral and foliate motifs set with variously shaped gemstones including opals, emeralds, sapphires, pearls, rubies, turquoise, highlighted at intervals with rose-cut diamonds, to a matt gold ground, inner circumference 160mm, 56 Zolotnik mark, St Petersburg, work masters mark AH.

Traces of Russian rose gold showing through on inside of bangle and at clasp. Seamless hinge, strong closure. Gemstones with typical inclusions characteristic to each type of stone. In very good condition. One small opal later replaced with a pearl, stones with small abrasions and some small chips commensurate with age and wear.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Pearls untested.

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that this lot contains ruby. Please refer to the Important Notices or contact the Jewellery department before bidding.

The maker's mark appears to be that of August Wilhelm Holmström (1828-1903). Born in Finland, Holmström moved to St Petersburg shortly after 1840 and became apprenticed to the jeweller Herold; a journeyman in 1850 he was made a master in 1857. The same year he acquired the workshop of Frederik Hammarström and was engaged by as chief jeweller of the firm recently established by Gustav Fabergé. Holmström continued in this capacity under Peter Carl Fabergé who took over his father's business in 1872.
Very little of the jewellery made by the firm of Fabergé at its outset may be confidently identified. The absence of a distinct house style, as well as imprecise markings and the loss of original fitted cases all contribute to this uncertainty.  In his memoir, Franz Birbaum, who became the firm's chief designer in 1893, described the early work: "fashionable but crude gold bracelets, brooches and pendants in the shape of belts with buckles, quite skillfully  combined and set with gems or enamelled: examples of such jewellery are to be found among old designs of the firm".  Evidently later work bore little resemblance to what preceded it.
This bangle could be a rare surviving example of the firm's early production. In its stylistic debt to west-European influences, it is entirely consistent with the prevalent fashion of St Petersburg; in its execution, in particular the finely finished hinge and clasp, it reveals the "exquisite technique" later credited to Holmström; and thirdly, the maker's mark is clearly legible.