AN IMPERIAL YELLOW-GROUND EMBROIDERED 'TWELVE-SYMBOL' DRAGON ROBE QING DYNASTY, 19TH CENTURY

finely picked-out with four rampant dragons set against shou medallions and stylised shou characters, bats, ruyi cloud scrolls, and the 'Twelve Imperial Symbols' all above turbulent waves and rocks with a high lishui border at the skirt and sleeves, reserved upon a finely embroidered blue wan diaper-ground

The overall condition is very good with no fading, the threads are lightly worn, but are all intact and no loose threads. The interior lining has been replaced. The buttons appear to be original.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Robes decorated with the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority were reserved for the exclusive use of the emperor, and the present example is particularly impressive for its intricate and meticulous embroidery. The Twelve Symbols, presented by the sun, moon, constellation of seven stars of the Big Dipper, mountains, dragons, pheasants, a pair of sacrificial cups, water weed, grains of millet, flames, a sacrificial axe, and fu symbol, signify the emperor as Ruler of the Universe, as well as representing the virtues he should embody. According to the Shujing ('Book of Documents') it was the legendary Emperor Shun who stipulated that these symbols should appear on court robes, and the Qianlong Emperor revived the tradition in 1759 as part of a comprehensive set of costume edicts promulgated in the Huangchao liqi tushi ('Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court').

A related yellow-ground robe, embroidered with the Twelve Symbols on a blue diaper ground, from the Colby Collection in Minneapolis Institute of Arts, was included in the exhibition Imperial Robes and Textiles of the Chinese Court, the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, Minneapolis, 1943, cat. no 30. Twelve Symbol yellow-ground robes are known designed with various densely-embroidered grounds; for example see one with a dense floral trellis ground, sold at Christie's New York, 22^nd March 2007, lot 459; and another, attributed to the Qianlong period (1736-1795), sold at Christie's Hong Kong, 26^th April 2004, lot 1014.

The Huangchao liqi tushi also records that the emperor could, confer the right to use this highest distinction of using the Twelve Symbols to a family member as a mark of favour; see a similarly ornate uncut empress's robe sold in our New York rooms, 20^th March 2002, lot 312.

Jifu were worn at the Qing court for imperial birthday celebrations and on less formal occasions, worn together with the ji fu dai (festive dress belt), the ji guan (festive hat), the court necklace and a surcoat. For a discussion of the significance of this type of robe and each of the Twelve Imperial Symbols, see Gary Dickinson and Linda Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, London, 2000, pp 76-92.