A magnificent and highly important diamond-set Badge of the Order of St. Andrew, unsigned, circa 1800

with central finely-enamelled figure of the Saint on Cross, with diamond borders and letters SAPR, supported on a crowned double-headed eagle formed entirely of diamonds except for ruby eyes and gold beaks and claws, the gold reverse delicately engraved to simulate plumage and carrying a later-applied gold plaquette engraved [-insert Russian text-]  The Empress Maria Fedorovna agreed to wear this Badge, November 26^{th 1890,} with pivoting Imperial Crown suspension also set with diamonds and fitted with gold riband-carrier and two retaining hooks for wear from either a Sash or Collar, slight wear to the enamel on the Saint's left arm, in excellent condition overall



 

The Russian Crown Jewels, circa 1800
Presented to Duke George of Oldenburg (1784-1812) in 1809
Oldenburg Family, notably Duke Peter of Oldenburg (1812-1881)
Given to Empress Maria Feodorovna by the Oldenburg family, 1890
Thence by descent
Christie's Geneva, 11 May 1983, Lot 186

Illustrated, A. von Solodkoff, Russian Gold and Silver, 1981, pl. 240.

In overall very good condition. Mounted in silver and gold. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 40.00 - 45.00 carats. Please note it is not possible to accurately measure the diamonds as they are all in a closed back setting. Diamonds of mixed colours and clarities throughout. Foiling in overall good condition. Two small diamonds deficient. Enamel decoration with some losses to the right arm and face of St Andrew, signs of restoration to arm in white enamel. Signs of professional cleaning to reverse. Cut-down collet diamond surmount slightly loose, could benefit from professional attention. .
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The Order of St. Andrew in Diamonds was worn by the Tsar and his immediate family on State occasions and was also bestowed from time to time upon foreign rulers who had shown particular favour to the Russian Empire.  The present badge is one of a number of sumptuous pieces commissioned during the reign of Paul I (1796-1801) or in the early years of that of his successor, Alexander I.

Alexander's favourite sister and confidante, the Grand Duchess Catherine Pavlovna, married Duke George of Oldenburg in 1809.  To mark the occasion Oldenburg, the second son of the reigning Duke, was appointed a Knight of the Order of St. Andrew.  As a special token of affection and esteem for his sister and her new husband, Alexander conferred upon him the insignia in diamonds and further honoured him with the bestowal of the title 'Imperial Highness'. 

Two sons were born to the couple before Duke George's early death in 1812, when the boys came under the protection of Alexander I until Catherine's second marriage, to William I of Württemberg, in 1816.  By 1830 the younger son, Prince Peter of Oldenburg, had survived his mother, elder brother and grandfather and was recalled from Germany to Russia by his maternal uncle, Tsar Nicholas I.

Peter was to serve Russia with distinction for 50 years.  He achieved the rank of Lieutenant-General in the Life-Guard before becoming a Senator, educational reformer and noted philanthropist.  He was also an accomplished musician and composer, and most of the Imperial Family attended a reception held in his honour in 1880.  He died in May 1881, shortly after the assassination of his first cousin Tsar Alexander II to whom he was very close.

Peter's heir was Alexander of Oldenburg (1844-1932), and it is believed to be he who presented his grandfather's diamond St. Andrew badge to Maria Feodorovna on the Feast Day of St. George 1890, as recorded on the gold plaquette fixed to the reverse.  Alexander's only son Peter Alexandrovich of Oldenburg (1868-1924) subsequently married Grand Duchess Olga Alexandrovna (1882-1960), the youngest of Tsar Nicholas II's siblings, in 1901.