Western European, 17th century

enamelled gold, garnet

The ring has a later adjustment. There is some minor wear to the enamel on the shoulders and gemstones consistent with age. There is a slight scratch to the garnet.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The beginning of the seventeenth century saw great changes in the ring-maker's art as the gems themselves took precedence over the elaborate goldsmith's settings which had characterised rings of the preceding centuries. Designs were simplified to maximise the magnificence of diamonds, rubies and emeralds. Here a large table-cut garnet is flanked by two diamonds of the same cut. Traces of white enamel are the only ornament to the box bezel and shoulders of the ring. The design can be compared to a ring from the Cheapside Horde, illustrated by Scarisbrick, set with a row of three gems across the finger and enamelled at the shoulders in white.

RELATED LITERATURE
D. Scarisbrick, Rings: Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection, London, 1993, pp. 90-91