Cultured pearl and diamond pendant-necklace, Grima, 1991

The semi-flexible tubular collar decorated with diamond-set sprigs, mounted in 18 karat white gold, supporting a detachable baroque cultured pearl pendant capped by foliate tendrils set with round diamonds, mounted in platinum, necklace and pendant signed Grima, 2 diamonds missing. With signed pouch. 

Andrew Grima (1921-2007) began his career in the accounts department of H.J. Company, his father-in-law's jewelry firm.   When  two salesmen approached with a suitcase full of semi-precious stones, Grima was able to persuade his father-in-law to purchase the lot and started designing his first collection of jewelry with no formal training.  Straying from the small and delicate style of the previous generation, Grima's designs were bold, using large uncut stones and equally large gold mountings giving his pieces a sculptural quality.  His career was advanced quickly by the patronage of Lord Snowdon, then married to Britain's Princess Margaret.  Shortly after such clients as Jacqueline Onassis, Ursula Andress, Barbara Hepworth, Elizabeth Taylor and even the Queen were attracted to his innovative designs. In 1966 Grima was awarded a warrant to supply jewels to the Royal Family.   Embracing the modern mood of the 1960s, he was commissioned to design a unique watch collection for Omega and was able to expand his business to New York, Tokyo and Sydney.  Andrew Grima moved with his family and business to Switzerland in 1986 after the sale of his flagship store on London's prestigious Jermyn Street.  With his recent passing, Andrew Grima will be remembered as a designer who revolutionized the world of jewelry in the 1960s.  His company remains in the family with his daughter Francesca working in their shop in Gstaad, mostly through private commission.

The pearl is a very lustrous creamy white shade with noticeable overtones of pink, green and blue. Typical wrinkling of the skin and irregular shape. Diamonds in the pendant are approximately G-H color and VS-SI clarity. Signed Grima. The necklace is of a slightly more yellow toned gold and the diamonds are of decorative quality, two are missing. Clasp signed Grima. Interior circumference of necklace approximately 14 1/2 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by original signed sketch of the necklace.