Set of three gem-set, enamel, wood and diamond 'Hindou' clip/brooches, René Boivin, circa 1935

Comprising: two clip brooches of flag bearers each with a wooden head with painted features, their clothing and hat studded with cabochon rubies and emeralds, trimmed with similar calibré-cut stones, each holding a polychrome enamelled flag, French assay and maker's marks, together with an ebony elephant and rider, decorated with cabochon emeralds, calibré-cut rubies and emeralds, highlighted with circular-cut diamonds, mounted in gold,

Cf: Francoise Cailles, René Boivin Joaillier, Les Éditions de L'Amateur, 1994, page 288 for an illustration of this very set of three clip/brooches, page 355 for an illustration of two similar clips of gem-set and enamel flag bearers and a Scott's Guard all thought to be designed as chess playing pieces.

Cf: Sotheby's Catalogue, Magnificent Jewels, Geneva, 20th November 1991, Lot 306 where the Scott's Guard brooch, by Réne Boivin was sold at auction.

See footnote to lot 175 (session II) for further information on René Boivin.

The elephant signed René Boivin-Paris, French assay marks for gold and indistinct maker's marks, the tusk tested as platinum and the rider as silver. The two other clips with French assay and maker's marks. The lids covering the bases are deficient, both flags slightly bent. This highly sought-after set of three clip/brooches with signs of normal wear throughout: abrasions; minor losses to enamel; scratches and damage commensurate with age and use. Extremely rare and highly desirable, in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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Worn by Princess 'Baby' de Faucigny-Lucinge in an illustrated page of French 'Vogue' magazine in 1937, these three small chess-figures are extremely rare and sought-after by true jewellery connoisseurs.  They are part of the contemporary taste for Indian fashion and style which inspired the jewellers on both side of the Atlantic and was the source of the production of very fanciful jewelled objects.