Important Gold and Enamel Chain Necklace, René Lalique, 1904-1905

Composed of twelve modified cross-shaped plaques surrounded by a thorn crowns, each cast on either side with a different scene from the life of Christ, alternating with bar-shaped plaques, each depicting one of the twelve apostles on the obverse, the reverse with three angels, all applied with greenish-black enamel, connected by pairs of thorn crowns,

René Lalique (1860-1945) is largely credited for freeing French jewellery from the confines of the traditional and raising it to an art form. The son of a Parisian merchant, Lalique studied design and by the age of 16 was apprenticed to the jeweller Louis Aucoc. Subsequently he worked as a freelance designer for various jewellery manufacturers including Vever and Boucheron. Lalique became an independent jeweller in 1885 and at first produced traditional designs mainly set in diamonds. His first public exhibition took place at the Salon de la Société des Artistes Francais in 1894 at which time his jewels began to demonstrate the sculptural, sinuous elements of the Art Nouveau style. His experimental techniques and designs combined precious and non-precious materials such as carved ivory, horn, glass and enamel in combination with diamonds, opals and pearls. Lalique's jewels embodied nature seen through a Symbolist's eyes with portrayals of exotic blooms, thistles, bats, serpents, dragonflies and metamorphic images of women. His designs for the fin-de-siecle actress Sarah Bernhardt furthered his public appeal and brought him commissions from around the world. His greatest success came with the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900 which prompted many imitations of his style and caused Lalique to eventually shift his focus to glassmaking. By 1912, Lalique had abandoned jewellery altogether.

Cf: Sigrid Barton, René Lalique, p. 268, no. 453.

Metal tested as gold. Minor losses to enamel but generally well preserved. Gross weight 285 grams. Scratches to metal commensurate with age and wear. Rare and well preserved piece, in good condition.
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