William Clay

• gilt full plate verge movement, plain steel two arm balance, pierced and engraved balance cock, worm and wheel set-up, fusee with gut line, turned baluster pillars, signed to the backplate • pea-pod enamel dial decorated with multi-coloured flowers against a white enamel ground, white enamel chapter ring with black enamel Roman numerals, single gilt brass hand • 22k gold bassine case decorated in pea-pod enamel with multi-coloured flowers against a white enamel ground, pendant with similar enamel decoration (slight damage), outer protective leather covered case

Movement appears to have been cleaned. Case back and bezel with some restored parts on the enamel. Later outer leather case. This watch is an exceptional and very rare example of a gold muti-colored enamel decoration from that period.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping.

Important Notice regarding importation into the United States of Rolex watches
Sotheby's cannot arrange for the delivery of Rolex watches to the United States because U.S. laws restricts the import of Rolex watches. The buyer or a designated agent may collect the property in the country of sale."

William Clay was recorded as working in London between 1652-80. Another example of his work, in a silver case in the form of a Tudor rose can be seen in the Clockmakers' Museum in the Guildhall, London.

In the seventeenth-century watches were not reliable time keepers and they were predominately used as an indication of wealth and status. Within Europe, at this time, there was a strong interest in naturalism and rare flowers, this fascination was evident throughout the designs of the period. The naturalistic enamelling of watchcases is often referred to as 'pea-pod' design. The origin of the technique has long been credited to Jean Toutin (1578 - 1644), the earliest examples of watchcases with this enamelling originated in Blois but its popularity spread through Europe and examples can be seen from North Germany and England. A band of French jewellers and enamellers gathered at the English Court and were instrumental in naturalising the designs and influencing techniques used in this country. Most of these enamellers left the English Court after the Civil War of 1642 - 1651 and so it seems likely that the case of this watch was in fact made in Blois.

An example of a watchcase with similar pea pod decoration can be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

For further information see Joan Evans, English Jewellery, Methuen & Co. LTD, 1921, p120-121; Joan Evans, A History of Jewellery, Faber and Faber, 1953, p134-137, pl 119, pl 121; Diana Scarisbrick, Ancestral Jewels, Andre Deutsch, 1989, p39, pl 41-43.