Lot 262
  • 262

PAIR OF SHELL EAR CLIPS, DARDE & FILS, CIRCA 1965

Estimate
4,000 - 6,000 GBP
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Description

Each striped conical shell applied with polished zig-zag spirals, French assay and maker's marks for Darde et Fils, clip fittings.

Literature

Cf: Sotheby's Catalogue, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, 2nd and 3rd April 1987, Geneva, lot 11 when this piece was formerly sold, not illustrated.

Cf: John Culme and Nicholas Rayner, The Jewels of The Duchess of Windsor, Thames & Hudson in association with Sotheby's, 1987.

Condition

Stamped with French assay marks for 18 carat gold and D F with a fleur-de-lys in between for Darde & Fils. Please note that Darde & Fils produced jewels for both René Boivin and Belperron, Shells probably polymita picta, Cuban tree snails. Strong clip fittings.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The Duchess of Windsor, born Bessie Wallis Warfield, (1895/96 - 1986) was an American socialite whose third husband was Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor, formerly King Edward VIII, his decision to marry Mrs Simpson (twice-divorced), caused a constitutional crisis in the United Kingdom and Europe, which ultimately led to the King's abdication in December 1936 to marry,"the woman I love". 

Throughout their courtship and married life the Prince of Wales and Duchess of Windsor shared a passion for jewellery, commissioning a series of fabulous creations from some of the finest jewellers of the time.  The collection included some of the most important examples of the art and creativity of 20th Century jewellers.

A large number of the collection consisted of Cartier pieces, including a spectacular sapphire and diamond necklace, circa1940 and a gold, turquoise, amethyst and diamond bib necklace circa 1947, this was worn to the Grand Bal held at the 'Galerie de l'Orangerie de Versailles' in June 1953.  At the British Fashion Gala in Biarritz in 1959 the Duchess wore the emerald and rose diamond Indian necklace as a double row choker, together with her Cartier emerald bead and rose diamond ear clips.  In December 1955 the Duchess was seen dancing at the Lido, the Champs-Elysee cabaret in Paris, wearing her Van Cleef & Arpels invisibly set ruby and diamond foliate earclips, her sapphire, ruby and diamond hinged bangle designed as a peacock's feather by Cartier, Paris, 1946, her ruby bead, emerald and diamond tasseled necklace of Indian inspiration by Cartier, and her pearl necklace.  In addition to these exquisite pieces, a ruby and diamond crossover necklace by Cartier in 1937, the ruby and diamond clusters, in which the two cushion shaped rubies weighed 36.15cts, were remounted by Cartier as spectacular terminals for a bangle.  This was the jewel that the Duke presented to the Duchess of Windsor to commemorate their first wedding anniversary on 3 June 1938.