ENAMEL AND DIAMOND CIGARETTE CASE, PROBABLY CHARLES JACQUEAU, CARTIER, CIRCA 1910

The rectangular case to a central enamel portrait miniature depicting a lady 'Rosamond' within a frame of rose-cut diamonds encircled by a border of stylised flower heads in lilac and green enamel, to a guilloché cornflower blue enamel ground, the outer edge decorated with blue, white and green enamel, further applied with rose-cut diamonds, measurements approximately 90mm x 53mm x 10mm, signed Cartier Paris Londres New York and numbered, French assay marks.

Cf: Exhibition Catalogue, L'Art de Cartier, Petit Palais, 1989, page 116 for similar examples of enamel and gem-set cases by Charles Jacqueau.

Cf: Exhibition Catalogue, Art Deco Jewellery, Charles Jacqueau, Genius Jewellery Designer and The Brilliant Age of Boucheron, Lalique etc. Japan, 2006/2007, page 52 for several examples of drawings by Charles Jacqueau depicting rectangular and cylindrical cases decorated with enamel.

Stamped with French assay marks for 18carat gold. Numbered 4146. Minor abrasions and scratches to the exterior enamel commensurate with age and wear and some wear to portrait miniature. Weight approximately 122 grams. In very good condition,
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This case was probably designed by Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968) who joined the Cartier workshop in 1909 working under Louis Cartier.  The Jewellery House of Cartier founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier when he took over the workshop of his master.  By the Early 20th Century Cartier employed many talented Parisian designers who, although rarely acknowledged were responsible for the creation of many of the company's most remarkable jewels.  Charles Jacqueau was acclaimed as being "the Picasso of jewellery design" for his fine, detailed and original pieces, his handling of style and colour was said to be "astonishing".  Jacqueau remained at Cartier for the rest of his professional career.