SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, MONTURE SCHLUMBERGER, 1960s

Centring on a cushion-shaped sapphire within a surround of stylised flower heads motifs set with marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, size I ½, signed Monture S, Schlumberger, French assay and indistinct maker's marks.

Cristóbal Balenciaga commissioned this jewel from his good friend Schlumberger, for his Sister-in-Law.

Cristóbal Balenciaga Eisaguirre was born on 21st January 1895 in Getaria, Spain.  He often as a child assisted his mother, a seamstress, by the age of twelve he began an apprenticeship with a tailor.   One of his noble customers and patrons encouraged him to go to Madrid to formerly train in the art of tailoring. 

Balenciaga was a skilled fashion designer considered a master of haute couture at his height in the early 1950's and into the 1960's. 

Full of original designs and ideas, he transformed the silhouette by exaggerating the shoulders and removing the waist.  In 1955 he designed the tunic dress which developed into the chemise dress in 1957, his 'Empire' line followed with high-waisted dresses and kimono style coats. 

He taught classes in fashion design, inspiring others such as Oscar de la Renta, André Courrèges, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy.  The Balenciaga name and fashion house continues to run today.

Balenciaga died on 23rd March 1972 in Valencia, Spain.

Formerly property of Cristòbal Balenciaga. Cristóbal Balenciaga commissioned this jewel from his good friend Schlumberger, for his Sister-in-Law. Cristóbal Balenciaga Eisaguirre was born on 21st January 1895 in Getaria, Spain. He often as a child assisted his mother, a seamstress, by the age of twelve he began an apprenticeship with a tailor. One of his noble customers and patrons encouraged him to go to Madrid to formerly train in the art of tailoring. Balenciaga was a skilled fashion designer considered a master of haute couture at his height in the early 1950's and into the 1960's. Full of original designs and ideas, he transformed the silhouette by exaggerating the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955 he designed the tunic dress which developed into the chemise dress in 1957, his 'Empire' line followed with high-waisted dresses and kimono style coats. He taught classes in fashion design, inspiring others such as Oscar de la Renta, André Courrèges, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy. The Balenciaga name and fashion house continues to run today. Balenciaga died on 23rd March 1972 in Valencia, Spain. French Assay marks for Platinum and gold and Schlumberger to the underside of mount. Sapphire measuring approximately 11.6mm x 11.5mm x 8.6mm, estimated to weigh approximately 10.78 carats, vivid blue with even distribution of colour. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 4.40 carats. Light scratches consistent with wear. In excellent condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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Jean Schlumberger was born in 1907 in Mulhouse, Alsace; at that time it was controlled by Germany.  His family were in the textile industry but he with an interest in the arts went into jewellery design.  His first jewels were inspired by nature using different materials such as ceramic flowers mounted as clips which he gave to friends.

Elsa Schiaparelli a well known couturier at the time was drawn to Schlumberger's designs and commissioned a series of costume jewellery. After serving in the Army and then the Free French Forces, he set up workshops with his business partner, Nicolas Bongard, in New York and Paris.

In 1956, Walter Hoving, the new chairman of Tiffany & Co., brought Schlumberger into the firm as vice president.  Hoving also invited Schlumberger to stamp his creations with his name, the first designer to be given this privilege.

In 1961, the Wildenstein Gallery in New York held an exhibition of his jewellery and objets d'art.  The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts has on permanent exhibit, a selection of his jewels and fantasy objects on loan from Mr and Mrs Paul Mellon.