ENAMEL, GOLD, IVORY PERIDOT AND DIAMOND PENDANT, PIERRE-GEORGES DERAISME, 1900s

The Art Nouveau pendant of open work foliate design decorated with green and brown enamel, framing two carved ivory panels, depicting musical trophies and a cameo of a standing muse, embellished with circular- and single-cut diamonds, suspending a peridot drop, to an enamel baton link chain, length approximately 445mm, signed Deraisme to ivory.

Cf: Alastair Duncan, The Paris Salons 1895-1914, Jewellery I The Designers A-K, The Antique Collectors Club 1994, pages 181-182 for examples of jewellery by Deraisme.

Overall very good condition. Five enamel batons to chain with some wear and small chips to enamel commensurate with age, pendant in good condition, diamonds bright and lively with mixed colours and clarities, ivory tinted with sepia wash, verbal from Gem a stating that the drop is probably peridot with brownish yellowish green hue. Signed to ivory on the front, and with French import (owl) mark stamped to last right hand baton link.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Pierre-Georges Deraisme 1865-1929 was born in Paris at the height of the Empire of Napoleon III. From an affluent and educated family he began his studies with Eugene Michaut, the renowned master goldsmith and engraver.  With interests in literature, poetry and drawing, he was a keen gunman and maintained an officer's career parallel to his professional life, teaching shooting in the army.

By 1889 at the time of the new stylistic trends heralded by the 'L'Exposition Universelle', his collaboration with René Lalique, where he became the master chaser in his workshop, had inspired him to embrace the iconography of the Art Nouveau movement.

In 1908 he established himself at the Rue Royale, a principle location for many jewellers during the period including Fontana, Fouquet and Sandoz, and exhibited at many of the Paris Salons of the decade.  Later he became an associate of Georges Uldry in a move to further commercialise his creations.

Before the Great War as early as 1911, Deraisme's designs began to adopt the geometric influences of the cubists that where later to become so synonymous with the Art Deco movement during the 1920's and 30's.  In 1913 the army made him Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur in recognition of his military teaching, a vocation which he continued with his engraving while he taught at the Ecole Boulle.