A RICHLY ORNAMENTED KINGFISHER FEATHER COURT HEADDRESS (DIANZI) QING DYNASTY, 19TH CENTURY

decorated on the black silk webbing around the curved front with a large filigree phoenix with out-stretched wings of pearls and kingfisher feathers, similarly decorated above and to the sloping back with rows of similar phoenix reserved on a cash-diaper kingfisher feather ground

From a European noble family acquired in China in 1900 and hence in the family by descent.

The central filigree phoenix on the front is missing its pearl embellishment. The other large pearl embellishments are all intact. The smaller embellishments flanking the phoenix and comprising the ends of the tails are missing. Some of the losses of the kingfisher have been later inpainted. The front lower panel comprising smaller phoenix filigree requires restitching on the proper right side. The structure and filigree are all in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Highly ornate headdresses of this type were worn with ritual clothes by Manchu ladies on special holidays or informal ceremonial occasions. The black silk webbing and clusters of decorations were intended to give the impression of numerous hairpins arranged in an elegant upswept coiffure. See a related headdress included in the Exhibition of Ch'ing Dynasty Costume Accessories, National Palace Museum, Taipei, 1986, cat. nos 85-87; one sold at Christie's Hong Kong, 11^th July 2006, lot 65; another sold at Christie's New York, 26^th March 2003, lot 76; and two versions of rounded shape with hanging pearls, sold in these rooms, 12^th June 2003, lots 32 and 33.

The technique of inlaying feathers is called dianzi, meaning 'dotting the kingfishers', whereby the feather is cut into shape and attached with glue onto the base. The intense blue colour of the feathers comes not from pigments in the feather itself, but in the way light is bent back and reflected back to the eye. The most expensive and highest quality works traditionally used feathers imported from Cambodia, and it is said that Chinese imperial demand for kingfisher feathers may have contributed to the wealth of the Khmer Empire.