A FINELY EMBROIDERED GOLD PRINCELY BADGE, BUZI MING DYNASTY, WANLI PERIOD

skillfully and intricately embroidered with a four-clawed dragon in gold thread, prancing among cloud swirls and above rolling and crashing waves, enclosed within a yellow thread border, turquoise lining  

The badge is in particularly good condition, for a piece of this type and age. It has been very well preserved, with the exception that some of light blue thread outlining of the flames has come loose and undone. There is slight fading of about 5% to the textile. The upper left corner is closer to the actual color.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The Ming emperors were the first to adopt a system of rank insignia, which was based on a custom carried over from the Yuan Dynasty that stemmed from the practise of nomadic peoples of the Eurasian steppe who wore special textiles or emblems on their coats as a means of identification and a sign of status.  The Ming codified the nine-grade ranking system which assigned buzi, or pictorial badges to all in attendance at the imperial court in 1391.  Dragons were used by the upper ranks of the Ming aristocracy while animal badges were used for the lower ranks of nobility and military officers. 

The dragon on the present lot is quite similarly rendered to that of a Wanli period dragon roundel depicting a blue dragon with the white rabbit and the moon (worn during the Mid-Autumn Festival) illustrated in Heavens' Embroidered Cloths, Hong Kong Museum of Art,  Hong Kong,1995, cat.no. 93. The ground of the dragon roundel is also very similar to the orange lozenge diaper ground on the present lot.